I am having trouble picturing the wide spool that sits at the base of my headstay sitting on the boom. I think he said he used a solid rod as opposed to a wire stay to keep the leading edge stiff. I will probably have to lower the headroom I designed into my bimini (I can now stand up straight under the bimini while standing on the aft seat.)Ī fellow in the marina with an Endeavor ketch did it and he has been very happy.
#FURLING MAIN CLEW HIEGHT TRIAL#
Sail that I could cut for a trial effort. There is a big rigging company here in Fort Lauderdale, Nance & Underwood, that has been around forever and has done a number of these installations.Īnd there are multiple sail lofts around. But if a new owner can retrofit it without too much work, I guess I will seriously consider making the modification. My hesitation in going to roller furling has been my reluctance to alter a classic boat. As a consequence, I have listed the boat for sale. Right now, I find myself deciding not to go out for a short sail because it is a lot of work. Such a rig would allow me to use the boat more often. Thank you so much for your very detailed response. It won't fit the norm but it will work great. The hardest part is getting outside the box that we sailors put ourselves in. A lot of thought, a lot of work, and a previous very satisfactory experience. I have not undertaken this project lightly. The boom will have a upward rake since the gooseneck is lowered and I want headroom in the cockpit as well as a main that will roll properly, the clew should be above the tack when rolled. I don't expect to ever want to retrofit, but the next owner might.
Retrofit should be easy and inexpensive with the exception of the sail.
#FURLING MAIN CLEW HIEGHT MOD#
They mainly consist of ġĚ fitting at the masthead, below the halyard shive to support the top of the stayĢĚ fitting below the existing gooseneck to secure the bottom of the stay and relocate the gooseneck.ĤĚn 8 ft length of 1 ' Genoa track on the boom.ĥĚ shive at the back of the boom to replace the outhaul and permit a sheet line to go forward and back to the cockpit.ĦĚ slight mod to the existing outhaul car to provide a 2 part tackle to the clew.ħĚ pad block on the mast to fair the furling line. The modes I am making are designed to withstand the worst case forces and are more robust than some of the similar systems I have seen. The new main will be cut as a jib, of jib cloth, and sailed that way. A standard main is cut flat, relative to the jib, and is sailed that way which is very inefficient except when beating. When the apparent wind is abeam, (true wind about 120+), or forward there is a significant advantage to being able to trim the sail from a station, the boom, which is outboard of the hull and have control of the attack angle and camber.
I have done a fair amount of research and can find no reason to believe the performance should be appreciably degraded. That is the only experience I have actually sailing this rig, (five years). When I bought a Morgan 30 with a similar rig I was concerned about performance but my wife and I made a game of out sailing other boats with a great deal of success. The ability to sail without having to hoist, or secure and cover the main and reef any amount at anytime is very desirable and in my opinion trumps the looks. I always tack down wind which is safer, more comfortable, and just as fast. It does increase the drag when sailing in drag mode, such as down wind, but not much. The roach doesn't provide any lift under normal sailing conditions. Yes, the battens disappear and the leach is straight or somewhat hollow, about 1 or 2 percent. In my opinion there is little performance loss. ED, At the risk of expounding more than necessary to answer your questions, I offer the following.
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